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Trip Diary | Arcosanti, Arizona

April 10, 2016 Maleeha Sambur
Sunlight streaming in to the Sky Suite | Photo by Maleeha Sambur

Sunlight streaming in to the Sky Suite | Photo by Maleeha Sambur

by Maleeha Sambur

I've been wanting to get to Arcosanti for years, and when the opportunity presented itself in the form of a friend's Arizona wedding, my husband and I jumped at the chance to spend a night there. We arrived in pitch dark after turning off the highway and bumping along an unpaved, unlit road, dodging prickly-pear cacti at every turn, and praying our shoddy rental car would stay the course. The harrowing drive proved well worth it, however. Over the next 16 hours, we were treated to a a dazzling night sky speckled with stars, watched the sunrise from the beautiful Sky Suite (a concrete-and-glass dream), and toured the facilities while learning about the life's work of Arcosanti's founder, the visionary architect and urban designer Paolo Soleri.  

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In DESTINATIONS Tags Arcosanti, Arizona, Paolo Soleri, Arcology, Architecture, Trip Diary
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24 Hours in Tokyo

April 9, 2016 Kelly Britton
Streets of Shinjuku | Photo by Kelly Britton

Streets of Shinjuku | Photo by Kelly Britton

by Kelly Britton

Tokyo may well be the world's greatest metropolis. Its 38 million residents live, work and play in an area roughly the size of LA county. An estimated 15 million people ride its subways each day, nearly three times that of the New York City subway system. It is also safe - the safest city in the developed world - and incredibly, unapologetically clean, with its white-gloved cabbies and spotless toilets. Drivers don't honk their horns, people don't shout. Even the homeless line up in orderly park tents, their shoes neatly arranged outside. 

But Tokyo is much more than a well-oiled machine. Around every corner is a bustling food market, a star-chitect designed glass tower, a blinding array of neon, an ancient, winding alley. Tokyoites are gluttons for more than food. History, sports, art, music, nature, fashion - residents of this great metropolis want for nothing. Take almost anything you can do, see, buy, or eat elsewhere, and Tokyo will do it better. Having lived in northern Japan for nearly three years, this city to end all cities also holds a very special place in my heart. And touching down for the sixth time, I am no less awed by its unparalleled style, scale, and energy than I was at first sight. 

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In DESTINATIONS, TRIP DIARY Tags Tokyo, Japan, 24 Hours, Asia
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George Nakashima House & Studio

March 30, 2016 Maleeha Sambur
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by Maleeha Sambur

As a longtime fan of the late George Nakashima's work, I'd been dying to make the pilgrimage to his home and studio in New Hope, Pennsylvania. One Saturday this past summer, my husband and I were finally able to make the trip and got an intimate glimpse into the life and work of the master craftsman. Nestled in the woods some 70 miles from the thrum of New York City, the parcel of land Mr. Nakashima purchased in 1945 eventually came to house fourteen buildings of his design. It's also where he and his Japanese-American family rebuilt their lives after being forced to leave their home in Seattle for an Idaho internment camp, from which they were eventually released through the sponsorship of architect Antonin Raymond, who invited them to join him in New Hope. 

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In PLACES OF INTEREST Tags George Nakashima, George Nakashima House & Studio, New Hope, Pennsylvania, Architecture, Furniture, Design, Trip Diary
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Tangerine Reads | Breaking into James Baldwin's House

February 4, 2016 Maleeha Sambur
James Baldwin photographed in Saint-Paul-de-Vence in 1979 by Dmitri Kasterine

James Baldwin photographed in Saint-Paul-de-Vence in 1979 by Dmitri Kasterine

One of my favorite reads in recent months was this beautifully written piece in the New Yorker, by Thomas Chatterton Williams. (I should disclose that the writer is a friend, but I so thoroughly enjoyed the story and thought it too good not to share.) While on holiday in the Cote d'Azur, Williams and his cohorts - his wife and a friend - managed to sneak into the abandoned former home of one of his heroes, literary and cultural icon James Baldwin. The villa in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, where Baldwin resided from 1970 until his death in 1987, now languishes in a woeful state of neglect, and its fate remains unclear. Although slated to be razed by developers seeking to capitalize on its spectacular views, work seems to have stalled and the property remains largely untouched.

I enjoyed the story as much for its painterly rendering of the locale as for the glimpse into the thoughts and sensations the experience triggered in the mind of the writer, as he mulls over what exactly he was hoping to find inside the home, ruminates on Baldwin's decision to take up residence there, segues into an exploration of why his voice has experienced such a resurgence as of late, and grapples with the thought that the crumbling physical vestiges of his footprint in France might soon be erased. 

I won't spoil it for you, but suffice it to say that its well worth a read, and I won't blame you if it inspires a jaunt to le Midi. TCW's description of the fascinating La Colombe d'Or had me mentally packing my bags. Having played host to a formidable roster of artists, writers, and other intriguing persons, the walls of the 1920's restaurant-turned-retreat and former Baldwin haunt must reverberate with stories. 

In CULTURE Tags James Baldwin, Thomas Chatterton Williams, Tangerine Reads, France
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Louise Bourgeois Home Will Soon Open to the Public

January 20, 2016 Maleeha Sambur
Photo by Nicholas Calcott

Photo by Nicholas Calcott

by Maleeha Sambur

Louise Bourgeois' Chelsea home will open to the public this summer through the Easton Foundation, offering admirers of the French-born sculptor a new window into how she lived and worked. The brownstone on West 20th Street, which Bourgeois and her husband Robert Goldwater purchased in 1962, remains largely unchanged since her passing in 2011, with garments still hanging in closets and countertops cluttered with toiletries, which make it seem as if she's only stepped out for an errand. The townhouse's four floors are imbued with personal history -- it's where Bourgeois coped with the loss of her husband, flourished as an artist, held her famous Sunday salons, and became involved in activism -- and this intimate glimpse seems to reflect her pragmatic, unfussy attitude towards the business of living. 

Head over to the New York Times to read more and check out photographer Nicholas Calcott's wonderful images here. 

In CULTURE Tags Louise Bourgeois, Ladies We Love, Art, New York
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Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

January 18, 2016 Maleeha Sambur
  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Photo: Maleeha Sambur

  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

  Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

  Max Bill's Construction / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Max Bill's Construction / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

  Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Photo: Maleeha Sambur

 Jean Dubufett's Dynamic Manor / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Jean Dubufett's Dynamic Manor / Photo: Maleeha Sambur

  Photo: Maleeha Sambur

Photo: Maleeha Sambur

  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

  Photo: Tawfeeq Khan    Photo: Tawfeeq Khan    Photo: Tawfeeq Khan    Photo: Maleeha Sambur    Photo: Tawfeeq Khan    Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Maleeha Sambur    Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Tawfeeq Khan    Giacometti Gallery / Photo: Maleeha Sambur    Max Bill's Construction / Photo: Maleeha Sambur    Photo: Maleeha Sambur   Jean Dubufett's Dynamic Manor / Photo: Maleeha Sambur   Photo: Maleeha Sambur    Photo: Tawfeeq Khan    Photo: Tawfeeq Khan

Words by Maleeha Sambur / Photos by Tawfeeq Khan & Maleeha Sambur

While traveling through Scandinavia this past summer, I had the opportunity to visit Denmark's Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Perched on a verdant hill overlooking the Øresund Sound in the quiet town of Humlebaek, just 25 miles north of Copenhagen, its indoor/outdoor blended environment offers a unique atmosphere in which to take in a vast collection of works from the likes of Alexander Calder, Joan Miró, Jean Arp, Pablo Picasso, and Alberto Giacometti, as well as a diverse roster of contemporary talents that includes Richard Serra, Yayoi Kusama, Doug Aitken, and Mike Kelley. One could easily while away an entire day exploring the sprawling grounds, encountering large-scale works tucked within the greenery, gliding through glass-walled corridors, stopping to sea-gaze and breathe in the fresh air (Sweden can be glimpsed across the water), and taking advantage of the excellent event programming, which includes engaging workshops, art evenings, and concerts for all ages. 

Opened in 1958, the Louisiana Museum was founded on the idea that art was not just for the elite, and could be enjoyed by anyone. Founder Knud W. Jensen organized the exhibitions according to what he called the "sauna principle" -- dividing the works into hot (celebrated artists that would draw crowds) and cold (talented but lesser-known, contemporary artists) so that visitors who came to see the more famous works would also be challenged to experience something new and exciting.

The museum's thoughtful, discreet modern design plays to that principle by gracefully merging architecture with the natural environment, offering visitors an immersive way to experience art as they wander through sun-dappled rooms and meander along beautifully landscaped forest paths, while the seasons provide an ever-changing backdrop. The museum's low, horizontal buildings are connected by glass hallways, a cafe opens out to the sea breeze, and gentle landscaping invites visitors to take off on a treasure hunt, stumbling upon hidden sculptures and playful elements (a long, bumpy slide is a favorite) along the way.

If you find yourself in Copenhagen or thereabouts, be sure to carve out some time for Louisiana. It's a can't-miss experience.

Getting there from Copenhagen:

Check out the outbound and return DSB train timetables from central Copenhagen (Kobenhavn H), Osterport, or Norreport stations to Humlebaek Station. The ride takes about 35 minutes. From there, it's a ten minute walk through a quiet residential area to get to Louisiana. There will be signage and likely other museum-goers walking in its direction, but I always like to have a screen shot of the walking route on my phone just in case. The museum opens at 11AM, and I highly recommend getting there close to opening so that you can take advantage of a full day (you might never want to leave). There is a lovely cafe on site for lunch, but it can get very crowded, especially on a nice day, so eat a decent breakfast before heading out in case you don't want to bother. 

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
GI. Strandveg 13
3050 Humlebæk
Tues-Fri 11AM-10PM
Sat-Sun 11AM-6PM
Admission for 18+: 115DK (approx. $17.61 USD; $15.45€)

 

In PLACES OF INTEREST Tags Louisiana Museum, Denmark, Museums, Art, Scandinavia, Europe, Copenhagen
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Tangerine Radio | The Lijadu Sisters

January 14, 2016 Maleeha Sambur
Taiwo and Kehinde Lijadu. Photo via Knitting Factory Records

Taiwo and Kehinde Lijadu. Photo via Knitting Factory Records

by Maleeha Sambur

Spotify Premium has been serving up some spot-on recommendations in our household lately, including this tune by the Lijadu Sisters, which has been the best addition to my music library in a very long while. 

A national treasure in their native Nigeria, Taiwo and Kehinde Lijadu are identical twin sisters who put out a number of critically acclaimed records between the 60's and 80's, a time when there weren't many female musicians making waves on the male-dominated Nigerian music scene. Singing in both Yoruba and English, their sound has been described as a mix between Afrobeat, Reggae, Jazz, Funk, Disco, and Waka, and "Come on Home" feels warm, instantly familiar, and, well, sisterly -- their voices interact playfully, inseparably, hinting at some secret telepathic twin language.

In 2014, at age 65, the duo re-emerged with an album, saw re-issues of some of their out-of-print albums by Knitting Factory Records, and performed with David Byrne and the Atomic Bomb! Band in a series of tribute concerts celebrating William Onyeabor. Here's hoping we continue to hear more from them. 

Also, how amazing are those earrings? 

In CULTURE, TANGERINE RADIO Tags The Lijadu Sisters, Music, Nigeria, Ladies We Love
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Museo Experimental El Eco

December 30, 2015 Jennifer Saracino
  Photo by Pablo León de la Barra via  Guggenheim.org blog

Photo by Pablo León de la Barra via Guggenheim.org blog

  Photo by Jennifer Saracino

Photo by Jennifer Saracino

  Photo by Jennifer Saracino

Photo by Jennifer Saracino

  Photo via  xalapo.com

Photo via xalapo.com

  Photo by Jennifer Saracino

Photo by Jennifer Saracino

  Photo by Pablo León de la Barra via  Guggenheim.org blog     Photo by Jennifer Saracino    Photo by Jennifer Saracino    Photo via  xalapo.com     Photo by Jennifer Saracino

by Jennifer Saracino

While living and studying in Mexico City last spring, I decided to take a break from my research and went outside for an evening stroll. I headed towards the Jardín del Arte, a peaceful and colorful park nearby in my neighborhood, San Rafael. 

I decided to walk the perimeter of the park, which I had never done before, and stumbled upon the Museo Experimental El Eco. Founded in 2005, the museum presents contemporary art projects by both Mexican and international artists. It comprises part of a group of museums run by UNAM (the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México) and was designed as an interdisciplinary space where artists are encouraged to present projects that draw from an array of diverse media including film, dance, poetry, and music. I peered past the door held ajar, intrigued by the long dark hallway and a sign that advertised free admission. 

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In PLACES OF INTEREST Tags Museo Experimantal El Eco, Mexico City, Mexico, Art, Museums
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MicroTeatro México

December 10, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
 MicroTeatro México | photo by by Coral Ortiz via  Chale Madame

MicroTeatro México | photo by by Coral Ortiz via Chale Madame

 MicroTeatro México via  Glits

MicroTeatro México via Glits

 Photo by Roberto Rojo

Photo by Roberto Rojo

 MicroTeatro México | photo by by Coral Ortiz via  Chale Madame   MicroTeatro México via  Glits   Photo by Roberto Rojo

by Jennifer Saracino

One night soon after I had moved to Mexico City, my friends announced that they had a surprise for me. They took me down a little alley in Santa Maria la Ribera, and we stopped just outside a nondescript building with a sign that read 'Microteatro.' In the Microteatro, you can watch a 'Micro Obra' (mini play) that's just 15 minutes long with 15 audience members. 

For our first show, we entered a tiny room with a bed that took up most of the space. Suddenly, an actor beside me started speaking to another woman in the room. She played a prostitute, eager to begin, but he, instead, began to recount a past memory. He spoke softly, gazing down at the floor, but then looked up . . . directly at me! 

The actor moved towards me and grabbed my hand. I looked at my friends in panic. He motioned for me to lie down in the bed. I prayed that I wouldn't have to speak - fortunately, I didn't. I was more of a prop, and the actor recounted the memories of his mother's funeral, while looking down at me, clasping my hand. 

I was mesmerized by the Microteatro. The owners fully optimized the entire building, making every room an intimate stage. The proximity to the actors themselves gave each of us a voyeuristic feeling - like we were privy to a conversation we shouldn't be hearing. 

The lobby of the Microteatro was filled with contemporary art and the laughter and lively discussions of its visitors. The first floor boasted a bar and antojitos, or little snacks, for purchase. 

If you're interested in experimental, accessible theater, I highly recommend the Microteatro even if you're not fluent in Spanish. The shows are short and direct, so they are easier to understand than a longer production. I'm not completely fluent, and I burst into quiet tears after one particularly poignant play.  But be warned: you might just get pulled onstage. 

MicroTeatro México
Roble 3
Santa María la Ribera, Cuauhtemoc, 06400
http://www.microteatro.mx

An earlier version of this post appeared on my blog, Something to Write Home About

In CULTURE Tags Mexico City, Mexico, Theater
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Time Travel | Flamenco in Barcelona, 1962

December 3, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
Antoñita La Singla by Xavier Miserachs, 1962, part of the permanent collection at  MACBA

Antoñita La Singla by Xavier Miserachs, 1962, part of the permanent collection at  MACBA

by Maleeha Sambur

I first came across this photo by Catalan photographer Xavier Miserachs five years ago, via a friend who saw it at a gallery show during the New York Flamenco Festival, and it remains one of my favorite images to date. Shot in Barcelona in 1962, its subject, the barefoot, gypsy flamenco legend Antoñita "La Singla", is something of an enigma. I couldn't find much information about her life other than that she was born deaf and mute. I did, however, come across a few videos of her riveting performances. I found myself transfixed by her fierce expressiveness and powerful energy (not to mention her polka dot tie-front blouse and high-waisted pants combo), and wanted to join the spectators in shouting, "Singla!" 

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In TIME TRAVEL, CULTURE Tags #TBT, Antoñita La Singla, Xavier Miserachs, Barcelona, Photography
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Atacama Desert in Bloom

November 16, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
Atacama Desert in bloom by Mario Ruiz

Atacama Desert in bloom by Mario Ruiz

by Maleeha Sambur

I count visiting the otherworldly landscapes of the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile among my most memorable travel experiences, but I can't imagine how incredible it must be to be there right now: The region is suddenly exploding in color after unusually heavy rainfall (caused by El Niño) produced a spring bloom of startling intensity, cloaking the Altiplano in vivid pink hues. It won't last long, however, and I wish I could teleport myself there right now to take it all in. 

With an average elevation of 13,000 feet, the Atacama is the world's highest-elevation desert, and also the driest non-polar desert on Earth (central parts of it haven't seen rain in 300+ years). Typically only the hardiest of plant species can survive under such harsh conditions, making this bloom all the more special. 

You can read more about it and check out photos at Smithsonian Magazine. 

In NEWS Tags Atacama Desert, Chile, South America
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Verana | Yelapa, Mexico

November 15, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
  Photo via    verana.com

Photo via verana.com

  Photo via    verana.com

Photo via verana.com

  Photo by    Sabrina Ko

Photo by Sabrina Ko

  Photo by    Jillian Mitchell

Photo by Jillian Mitchell

  Photo via  Verana.com

Photo via Verana.com

  Photo via  Verana.com

Photo via Verana.com

 Photo via  Verana.com

Photo via Verana.com

  Photo via    verana.com     Photo via    verana.com     Photo by    Sabrina Ko     Photo by    Jillian Mitchell     Photo via  Verana.com     Photo via  Verana.com    Photo via  Verana.com

Located on Yelapa Island, off Puerto Vallarta, Verana is the vision of film industry veterans Heinz Legler and Veronique Lievre, and their cinematic sensibility was put to great use in creating this uniquely beautiful retreat. Surrounded by lush jungle and perched over the deep blue Bay of Banderas, their mountainside hideaway would be a magical place for a romantic retreat.

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In HOTELS Tags Mexico, Verana, Yelapa, Puerto Vallarta
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Comakwon Cafe

November 15, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
Comakwon+Cafe+in+Heyri+Arts+Village+in+Seoul+-+Photo+by+Rosa+Park+for+Cereal.jpeg
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Comakwon+Cafe+in+Heyri+Arts+Village+in+Seoul+-+Photo+by+Rosa+Park+for+Cereal.jpeg heyri5.jpg heyri2.jpg

by Maleeha Sambur

Cereal Magazine's photos of Comakwon Cafe piqued my interest in learning more about the Heyri Arts Village, the creative enclave in South Korea where it's located. Situated in the countryside along the Han River, an hour north of Seoul, the village was the vision of an artists collective in the 90's. Some of South Korea's top architects were enlisted to design its beautifully minimal concrete structures, which house galleries, coffee shops, and cafes. If you're ever in Seoul, it would make for a great day trip.

Photos by Rosa Park for Cereal

In EAT & DRINK, PLACES OF INTEREST Tags Comakwon Cafe, Seoul, South Korea, Heyri Arts Village, Asia
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Trip Diary | Marfa, Texas

November 11, 2015 Maleeha Sambur

There is much to fall in love with in Marfa, and much of it has been written about ad nauseum - the unique, charmingly offbeat vibe of a remote little speck of a town with a lone stoplight, peopled (sparsely) with the friendliest folk, where tumbleweeds dance merrily across desert plains; the air of supernatural mystery surrounding the Marfa Lights; its history as a backdrop for John Wayne westerns; and of course, Donald Judd, the man whose artistic legacy has been intrinsically fused with the town since his arrival in the 1970s. 

Eager to immerse myself in all of this, I traveled to Marfa with my friends Sylvia and Jen in September of 2014. After flying into El Paso from our respective home cities - New York, Seattle, New Orleans - we crashed with Sylvia and Jen's parents (who happened to live there at the time) for the night. The next morning, we borrowed their car, filled up the gas tank, and embarked on a three hour drive through the flat expanse of West Texas. We were mostly alone on the road, save for the occasional  truck rumbling past, or the odd train snaking along in the distance, kicking up dust trails in its wake. We found ourselves enjoying an uninterrupted vista that was mostly sky, across which enormous white clouds gathered and rolled before our eyes, joining and separating in their own fluffy drama.  Thoroughly mesmerized by the cloud theater, the solitude of the open road, and the warmth of excellent company, my mind was suddenly light years from New York. 

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In DESTINATIONS Tags Marfa, Texas, Trip Diary
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Trip Diary | Marrakech

November 10, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
Photo by Maleeha Sambur

Photo by Maleeha Sambur

by Maleeha Sambur

My husband and I landed in Marrakech in a Saturday afternoon and checked into the gorgeous six-room Riad Dixneuf la Ksour, where we were welcomed with delicious mint tea and almond biscuits in the tranquil central courtyard, tucked away from the cacophony of the streets. The riad was a study in understated elegance, each turn revealing another simple yet perfectly composed vignette.  After exploring its beautifully appointed spaces and taking in a birdseye view of the city against the backdrop of the snow-covered Atlas Mountains from the rooftop, we went for a walk through the labyrinthine alleys of the medina. As the melodious call to evening prayer reached our ears, we found ourselves at Jemaa el-Fnaa square just in time to watch the setting sun wash the buildings in rose gold hues and observe crowds of people shuffling off to the nearby mosque. 

As evening fell, we walked through the square's storied open-air market, which sprang to life after prayer time. The atmosphere vibrated with energy, awakening our groggy, jet-lagged senses. Under the enchanting glow of string lights and patterned lanterns, we took in the scene, charmed as much by the vendors' clever multilingual sales pitches as their intriguing wares. The way they switched effortlessly between languages conjured in my mind the world of the nomadic traders, caravans, and global marketplaces of old. Fortunetellers beckoned and food stalls enticed us with tantalizing aromas as we walked past carts piled high with dates, nuts, and spices, magicians playing tricks with rapt audiences, and medicine men of dubious qualifications touting miracle cures and herbal remedies. 

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In DESTINATIONS Tags Marrakech, Morocco, North Africa
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Uxua | Trancoso, Brazil

November 10, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
 photo by Maleeha Sambur

photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Light fixture at Uxua Casa | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Light fixture at Uxua Casa | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 photo by Maleeha Sambur

photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Our living room at pousada Seu João | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Our living room at pousada Seu João | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 The bathroom in Casa Seu João | photo via  uxua.com

The bathroom in Casa Seu João | photo via uxua.com

 photo by Maleeha Sambur

photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Seu João | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Seu João | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Casa da Árvore | photo still from video via uxua.com

Casa da Árvore | photo still from video via uxua.com

 Casa da Árvore | photo via  uxua.com

Casa da Árvore | photo via uxua.com

 Seu Irenio | photo still from video via  uxua.com

Seu Irenio | photo still from video via uxua.com

 Seu Irenio | photo still from video via  uxua.com

Seu Irenio | photo still from video via uxua.com

 Seu Irenio | photo still from video via  uxua.com

Seu Irenio | photo still from video via uxua.com

 A handmade chair at Terraço do Céu | photo still from video via  uxua.com

A handmade chair at Terraço do Céu | photo still from video via uxua.com

 Casa Gulab Mahal | photo via uxua.com

Casa Gulab Mahal | photo via uxua.com

 Colorful houses along the Quadrado | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Colorful houses along the Quadrado | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 São João Batista church | photo by Maleeha Sambur

São João Batista church | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Trancoso's coastline | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Trancoso's coastline | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 photo by Maleeha Sambur

photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Uxua's beachfront lounge area | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Uxua's beachfront lounge area | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Oceanside refreshments | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Oceanside refreshments | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Snacktime at Uxua's beach bar | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Snacktime at Uxua's beach bar | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 photo by Maleeha Sambur

photo by Maleeha Sambur

 photo by Maleeha Sambur

photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Local flora | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Local flora | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Flower petals shed by a tree on the Quadrado | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Flower petals shed by a tree on the Quadrado | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Communal living room at Uxua | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Communal living room at Uxua | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Uxua at night | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Uxua at night | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 photo by Maleeha Sambur  Light fixture at Uxua Casa | photo by Maleeha Sambur  photo by Maleeha Sambur  Our living room at pousada Seu João | photo by Maleeha Sambur  The bathroom in Casa Seu João | photo via  uxua.com   photo by Maleeha Sambur  Seu João | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Casa da Árvore | photo still from video via uxua.com  Casa da Árvore | photo via  uxua.com   Seu Irenio | photo still from video via  uxua.com   Seu Irenio | photo still from video via  uxua.com   Seu Irenio | photo still from video via  uxua.com   A handmade chair at Terraço do Céu | photo still from video via  uxua.com   Casa Gulab Mahal | photo via uxua.com  Colorful houses along the Quadrado | photo by Maleeha Sambur  São João Batista church | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Trancoso's coastline | photo by Maleeha Sambur  photo by Maleeha Sambur  Uxua's beachfront lounge area | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Oceanside refreshments | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Snacktime at Uxua's beach bar | photo by Maleeha Sambur  photo by Maleeha Sambur  photo by Maleeha Sambur  Local flora | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Flower petals shed by a tree on the Quadrado | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Communal living room at Uxua | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Uxua at night | photo by Maleeha Sambur

by Maleeha Sambur

Trancoso, a sleepy fishing village in the coastal state of Bahia, first landed on my radar when I came across photos of Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa and fell hard for its beautifully designed spaces. I immediately wanted to redecorate my Brooklyn apartment in its likeness, and the only thing standing in my way was a lack of available outdoor shower space and a dearth of tropical vegetation suitable for a bi-level treehouse (plus zoning laws, perhaps). Though my plan was foiled, when my husband and I decided on South America for our honeymoon destination in 2013, I insisted we build a stay at Uxua into the itinerary.

Established as a mission town by Portuguese settlers in the 16th century, Trancoso remained relatively isolated from the outside world until recently, when an access road was finally connected to the highway network. In the 1970's, through word of mouth, it became a haven for hippies, and the grassroots efforts of these newcomers played a role in protecting Trancoso from development interests as resorts began cropping up in towns all along the coast, destroying once-pristine beaches and the local communities that had called the area home for centuries.

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In HOTELS Tags Uxua, Bahia, Trancoso, Brazil
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A Road Trip Through Morocco

November 9, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
 The Atlas Mountains | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

The Atlas Mountains | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 A drive up into the mountains | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

A drive up into the mountains | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Game of Thrones-esque scenery | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Game of Thrones-esque scenery | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Oasis town of Tinerhir -- not a painting! | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Oasis town of Tinerhir -- not a painting! | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Oasis town of Tinerhir | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Oasis town of Tinerhir | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 A shepherd and his flock | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

A shepherd and his flock | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 A rest stop at the Todra Gorges | photo by Maleeha Sambur

A rest stop at the Todra Gorges | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Dust storm in the distance | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Dust storm in the distance | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Photo by Tawfeeq Khan

IMG_3275.jpg
DSC_1852.jpg
DSC_1835.jpg
 Riding to our desert camp | photo by guide

Riding to our desert camp | photo by guide

 The surreal desertscape | photo by Maleeha Sambur

The surreal desertscape | photo by Maleeha Sambur

IMG_3185.jpg
 Pit stop for some shopping | photo by Tawfeeq Khan 

Pit stop for some shopping | photo by Tawfeeq Khan 

 Translucent vessels for sale at the fossil shop | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Translucent vessels for sale at the fossil shop | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Fossil sculptures in Erfoud. This area of Morocco is teeming with remnants of prehistoric life. | photo by Maleeha Sambur

Fossil sculptures in Erfoud. This area of Morocco is teeming with remnants of prehistoric life. | photo by Maleeha Sambur

 Placid lakes and green landscapes | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

Placid lakes and green landscapes | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

 The Atlas Mountains | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  A drive up into the mountains | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Game of Thrones-esque scenery | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Oasis town of Tinerhir -- not a painting! | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Oasis town of Tinerhir | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  A shepherd and his flock | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Photo by Tawfeeq Khan  A rest stop at the Todra Gorges | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Dust storm in the distance | photo by Tawfeeq Khan  Photo by Tawfeeq Khan IMG_3275.jpg DSC_1852.jpg DSC_1835.jpg  Riding to our desert camp | photo by guide  The surreal desertscape | photo by Maleeha Sambur IMG_3185.jpg  Pit stop for some shopping | photo by Tawfeeq Khan   Translucent vessels for sale at the fossil shop | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Fossil sculptures in Erfoud. This area of Morocco is teeming with remnants of prehistoric life. | photo by Maleeha Sambur  Placid lakes and green landscapes | photo by Tawfeeq Khan

by Maleeha Sambur

Each year, my family members and I carve out one week of our lives for a family vacation, and in 2014, Morocco was our chosen destination. Morocco is a country of remarkably diverse landscapes, and with so many fascinating regions to explore, it was tough to choose which places to visit. Since only one member of our party had been there before, we were seeking a general introduction to the country, and with six of us traveling, we decided that the easiest way to accomplish that would be to travel by car, with a tour company guiding us in our explorations. With the help of the excellent folks at Rough Tours, we settled on an itinerary that took us from Marrakech to Fes to Chefchaouen, along with a night in the Sahara and plenty of interesting stops in between.

Since we usually prefer self-guided exploration over organized tours, we were a bit concerned that taking the well-trodden tourist route would feel inauthentic, but our guides made it seem unique, catering their talking points to our individual interests (architecture, history, crafts, sociology), showing us key sites while steering clear of tourist traps, and weighing in on where to eat and shop without leading us to a friend or relative's business (a common practice among tour companies, as they can earn a commission for bringing in business).  It was a lot of driving, but the ever-shifting landscape provided plenty of distractions, as we watched the scenery change from lush, palm-lined oases to surreal, mind-bending desertscapes; barren stretches of otherworldly rock formations to terracotta kasbahs camouflaged among undulating ochre-colored hills; verdant valleys with crystalline lakes to pine-forested, snow-blanketed ski towns.  

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In DESTINATIONS Tags Morocco, Road Trip, North Africa
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Tangerine Radio | Exuma

November 5, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
Under the Palm Trees | Mahina Alexander

Under the Palm Trees | Mahina Alexander

by Maleeha Sambur

With temperatures reaching into the 70s this week, November in New York is feeling more like June, and the effects of this El Niño-driven seasonal regression are being felt not just in my wardrobe, but also in my headphones, as warm weather tunes mingle with my winter standards. One summer remnant in particular - Exuma's "Rushing Through the Crowd" - is still on heavy rotation. 

Over the summer, I stumbled, quite by accident, across a 1972 single by the late Bahamian artist. I was working with a swimwear client, and while shooting at her studio, we found ourselves in need of some props. She pulled out a box of discarded records she'd rescued from the sidewalk, from which we plucked a dusty 45 featuring an illustration of Adam and Eve in a tropical Eden on the label. We put it on, and just seconds into its junkanoo/calypso/freak-folk goodness, I was smiling. If you're looking to deny winter's approach for a bit longer, or just in need of a mood-lifter, this should get you shimmying. 

In CULTURE Tags Exuma, Music
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Coqui Coqui | Valladolid, Mexico

November 3, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
 Photo via  coquicoqui.com

Photo via coquicoqui.com

 Photo via  coquicoqui.com

Photo via coquicoqui.com

 Photo via  coquicoqui.com

Photo via coquicoqui.com

 Photo via Lonny

Photo via Lonny

 Photo via  coquicoqui.com

Photo via coquicoqui.com

 Photo via  Club Monaco blog

Photo via Club Monaco blog

 Photo via  coquicoqui.com

Photo via coquicoqui.com

 Photo via  coquicoqui.com   Photo via  coquicoqui.com   Photo via  coquicoqui.com   Photo via Lonny  Photo via  coquicoqui.com   Photo via  Club Monaco blog   Photo via  coquicoqui.com

by Maleeha Sambur

Though all four of the Coqui Coqui boutique hotels are stunning, it's the Valladolid location that tops my list of dream accommodations. Centrally situated on the oldest street in town, the one-room hotel's beautifully appointed guest house is located directly above the Coqui Coqui perfumery and comes outfitted with a private terrace, stone plunge pool, and freestanding tub. In addition to the perfumeria, where you can stock up on the popular fragrances or play at concocting your own, the property also features a restaurant, an open air spa, and a library. 

If you've got a trip to the Yucatan planned, Valladolid is well worth a detour, and a nice escape from more scene-y Tulum, offering quiet, picturesque streets dotted with colorful facades, delicious authentic cuisine, and proximity to ancient ruins and glittering turquoise cenotes. 

 

In HOTELS Tags Coqui Coqui, Valladolid, Mexico
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Casa Wabi

October 21, 2015 Maleeha Sambur
Casa Wabi - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ.jpg
Casa Wabi walls - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope.jpg
Casa Wabi artist residence - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ .jpg
Casa Wabi garden - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ.jpg
Casa Wabi pool - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ.jpg
Casa Wabi - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ.jpg Casa Wabi walls - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope.jpg Casa Wabi artist residence - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ .jpg Casa Wabi garden - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ.jpg Casa Wabi pool - photo by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ.jpg

by Maleeha Sambur

Ever since I read about Fundación Casa Wabi in this 2014 WSJ story, my heart has been set on visiting. The stunning arts center situated along Mexico's Pacific Coast, not far from Puerto Escondido, is the result of the combined efforts of a formidable team of talent: Conceived by artist Bosco Sodi and designed by Tadao Ando, its 66 tropical acres also feature a contemporary art collection within a botanical garden designed by Alberto Kalach, and Patricia Martin serves as Director.

The foundation functions as both an artists residence and a haven for members of the neighboring communities, and Sodi has launched an arts education program with the aim of connecting resident-artists with locals - particularly children and young adults - through collaborative, socially and environmentally beneficial projects. 

The structures (a mix of residences, studios, and mixed-use spaces) meld modernist design elements with natural materials and native techniques. The buildings are a beautifully complementary hybrid of Ando's signature concrete walls with the traditional palapa-style thatched roofs that are common throughout the region, and open-sided rooms allow indoor and outdoor spaces to blend seamlessly. The convergence of art, architecture, and nature in this particular setting - between the rough surf of a windswept beach and the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains - makes for an otherworldly and truly unique atmosphere.

Photos by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ

In PLACES OF INTEREST Tags Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico, Bosco Sodi, Tadao Ando
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