Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Words by Maleeha Sambur / Photos by Tawfeeq Khan & Maleeha Sambur

While traveling through Scandinavia this past summer, I had the opportunity to visit Denmark's Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Perched on a verdant hill overlooking the Øresund Sound in the quiet town of Humlebaek, just 25 miles north of Copenhagen, its indoor/outdoor blended environment offers a unique atmosphere in which to take in a vast collection of works from the likes of Alexander Calder, Joan Miró, Jean Arp, Pablo Picasso, and Alberto Giacometti, as well as a diverse roster of contemporary talents that includes Richard Serra, Yayoi Kusama, Doug Aitken, and Mike Kelley. One could easily while away an entire day exploring the sprawling grounds, encountering large-scale works tucked within the greenery, gliding through glass-walled corridors, stopping to sea-gaze and breathe in the fresh air (Sweden can be glimpsed across the water), and taking advantage of the excellent event programming, which includes engaging workshops, art evenings, and concerts for all ages. 

Opened in 1958, the Louisiana Museum was founded on the idea that art was not just for the elite, and could be enjoyed by anyone. Founder Knud W. Jensen organized the exhibitions according to what he called the "sauna principle" -- dividing the works into hot (celebrated artists that would draw crowds) and cold (talented but lesser-known, contemporary artists) so that visitors who came to see the more famous works would also be challenged to experience something new and exciting.

The museum's thoughtful, discreet modern design plays to that principle by gracefully merging architecture with the natural environment, offering visitors an immersive way to experience art as they wander through sun-dappled rooms and meander along beautifully landscaped forest paths, while the seasons provide an ever-changing backdrop. The museum's low, horizontal buildings are connected by glass hallways, a cafe opens out to the sea breeze, and gentle landscaping invites visitors to take off on a treasure hunt, stumbling upon hidden sculptures and playful elements (a long, bumpy slide is a favorite) along the way.

If you find yourself in Copenhagen or thereabouts, be sure to carve out some time for Louisiana. It's a can't-miss experience.

Getting there from Copenhagen:

Check out the outbound and return DSB train timetables from central Copenhagen (Kobenhavn H), Osterport, or Norreport stations to Humlebaek Station. The ride takes about 35 minutes. From there, it's a ten minute walk through a quiet residential area to get to Louisiana. There will be signage and likely other museum-goers walking in its direction, but I always like to have a screen shot of the walking route on my phone just in case. The museum opens at 11AM, and I highly recommend getting there close to opening so that you can take advantage of a full day (you might never want to leave). There is a lovely cafe on site for lunch, but it can get very crowded, especially on a nice day, so eat a decent breakfast before heading out in case you don't want to bother. 

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
GI. Strandveg 13
3050 Humlebæk
Tues-Fri 11AM-10PM
Sat-Sun 11AM-6PM
Admission for 18+: 115DK (approx. $17.61 USD; $15.45€)

Comakwon Cafe

by Maleeha Sambur

Cereal Magazine's photos of Comakwon Cafe piqued my interest in learning more about the Heyri Arts Village, the creative enclave in South Korea where it's located. Situated in the countryside along the Han River, an hour north of Seoul, the village was the vision of an artists collective in the 90's. Some of South Korea's top architects were enlisted to design its beautifully minimal concrete structures, which house galleries, coffee shops, and cafes. If you're ever in Seoul, it would make for a great day trip.

Photos by Rosa Park for Cereal

Casa Wabi

by Maleeha Sambur

Ever since I read about Fundación Casa Wabi in this 2014 WSJ story, my heart has been set on visiting. The stunning arts center situated along Mexico's Pacific Coast, not far from Puerto Escondido, is the result of the combined efforts of a formidable team of talent: Conceived by artist Bosco Sodi and designed by Tadao Ando, its 66 tropical acres also feature a contemporary art collection within a botanical garden designed by Alberto Kalach, and Patricia Martin serves as Director.

The foundation functions as both an artists residence and a haven for members of the neighboring communities, and Sodi has launched an arts education program with the aim of connecting resident-artists with locals - particularly children and young adults - through collaborative, socially and environmentally beneficial projects. 

The structures (a mix of residences, studios, and mixed-use spaces) meld modernist design elements with natural materials and native techniques. The buildings are a beautifully complementary hybrid of Ando's signature concrete walls with the traditional palapa-style thatched roofs that are common throughout the region, and open-sided rooms allow indoor and outdoor spaces to blend seamlessly. The convergence of art, architecture, and nature in this particular setting - between the rough surf of a windswept beach and the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains - makes for an otherworldly and truly unique atmosphere.

Photos by Nicholas Alan Cope for WSJ

Hueso | Guadalajara, Mexico

by Maleeha Sambur

Mexico-based architect and designer Ignacio Cadena and his firm, Cadena + Associates, built Hueso, a restaurant in Guadalajara's Lafayette design district, for his brother, chef Alfonso Cadena. It's aptly named, given that thousands of cast aluminum animal bones line the walls. The theme is echoed in the bone-white painted brick of the interior, as well as the gorgeously tiled exterior. While it sounds a bit morbid, the result is actually a wonderfully light, airy, awe-inspiring dining space. More images here and here, and interview with Ignacio Cadena here.

Photos by Jaime Navarro

Ricardo Bofill's La Muralla Roja

by Maleeha Sambur

Apartamento co-founder Nacho Alegre's gorgeous photographs of La Muralla Roja, the Ricardo Bofill-designed housing complex in the Mediterranean town of Calpe, Spain, have been dancing in my head ever since I spied them on Vogue.com over the summer. They continue to haunt me, resurfacing in my Pinterest and Instagram feeds every other day or so. 

Built atop a rocky cliff, the design of the complex was inspired by the walled fortresses of North Africa, its flow dictated by a series of inter-connected stairs and access bridges that lead to the 50 apartments. The vivid color scheme consisting of pinks, reds, and blues was intended to interact - either as complement or contrast -  with the changing colors of the sky. 

While I'm pretty much a fan of all of Bofill's works, these images in particular had me jonesing hard for a trip to the Alicante. However, it was Alegre's beautiful, spot-on description of the place that really stuck:

I imagine it as a Postmodern interpretation of a casbah, with its labyrinth-like circulation, overlapping stairs, impossible balconies, and endless series of patios. 

Read more about his impressions and see the rest of the photos here.